Mammoth Lakes to South Lake Tahoe, 184 Miles
This last stretch was our most difficult yet. We went nearly two weeks without a break, and our bodies and spirits were as fatigued as I have been in my life.
In addition, a warning: if you want to go to the Yosemite Wilderness in the Summer, read on bug pressure! We experienced more mosquitos than I have ever seen in my life.
We have now finished the Sierra Nevadas, and head into 600 miles of Northern California. I know very little about the landmarks of Northern California, and look forward to both easier terrain and the beauty that inevitably lies ahead.
Mammoth Lakes to Shadow Overlook, 17 Miles
Leaving Mammoth, we encountered our first ranger today. He looked over and validated our permits, ensured we had a proper bear canister, and reminded us of the principles of leave no trace, as this world class wilderness is also fragile. Above 10,000 ft, air is so scarce and the climate so inhospitable that many trees of any significant size are decades, if not hundreds of years old. Fires are not allowed above 10k for this reason. This year, drought conditions are so acute that all fires are not allowed.
A nice feature of going down a linear path like the Pacific Crest Trail is that you often see many of the same people again and again at different points. It was nice to meet a older man from British Columbia that goes by Hot Rod. He is slowly making his way walking back home.
Mammoth Lakes to Donahue Pass, 15.5 Miles
4,000 ft elevation gain, Two passes, an Ansel Adams Picture and more bugs than one can imagine. Today, we went through 2 additional passes. Island Pass at 10,226, and Donahue Pass at 11,073. Island Pass earned its name from the nearby 1,000 Island Lake. This Lake was featured in the works of Ansel Adams, who can capture a far better picture than we can. Enraptured with the Sierras, much of his work took place here.
The area we were hiking in was the Ansel Adams Wilderness from this.
Summer is definitely in full swing now, as the mosquitos are here, and they are many. Glad that we picked up bug repellent in Mammoth, as I don’t think we could breathe now without it.
The Sierra has many sources of water, and the mosquitos are now at most of them in flocks. Otherwise, it’s nice, as the trail is still beautiful, but not nearly so difficult as the last leg, although it is longer.
Donahue Pass to Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, 19.5 Miles
Beautiful day on mostly flat terrain. Descended Donahue Pass and followed the trail from the headwaters of the Tuolomne River through the beginnings of the Yosemite Wilderness.
About as many meadows as there are miles, and famous summits carved from ancient glaciers such as Cathedral Peak. These dramatic peaks were the only stone above these glaciers and were carved into their shapes over the course of millions of years.
We learned that the meadows are formed when an area retains enough snowmelt that trees cannot easily grow, and grasses spread out. As meadows hold more or less snowmelt each year, they expand and contract in this dynamic ecosystem. This time in the Sierra is likely something I will treasure for the rest of my life.
Glen Aulin Camp to Benson Pass, 17.5 Miles
Beautiful day. Woke up to that dreaded low hum. The low hum from such a high quantity of mosquitos you can hear them as ambient noise. There was an informational plaque that stated the Sierra has a four month period from May to September encompassing all of the seasons that are not Winter. My theory is that you get half a year’s mosquito hatches in 2-3 months here. How else could one explain the nigh Biblical cloud of insects.
Besides this, we are fortunate to have pristine weather and are near to leaving the Sierras just around when most thru hikers start it: Ray Day, or June 15th. I will miss my time in this “range of light,” but look forward to what lies ahead.
Happy to reach our campsite an hour earlier than usual, to catch an extra hour of sleep. There are few things that I love more than the sound of rushing water where I can lay my head and sleep. Just feels like all is right in the world that way.
Benson Pass to Bear Valley, 14.5 Miles
Whew! What an exhausting day. Remarkably difficult terrain showcasing what the Appalachian Trail is typically known for: PUDs, or Pointless Ups & Downs. Meaning, we go up a 1,000 ft hill, we immediately go back down, and so on.
Yosemite makes this particularly grueling, as the trail features these unpleasant stone steps as you climb and descend, rather than a slope. This is much more difficult to traverse as you slam your legs with every step down and pull yourself up on every ascent.
In addition to mosquitos, I want to highlight a notorious large black ant. So notorious is this ant for its aggression, that John Muir wrote about it 160 years ago, excerpted here:
“Mastodons and elephants used to live here no great geological time ago, as shown by their bones, often discovered by miners in washing gold-gravel. And bears of at least two species are here now, besides the California lion or panther, and wild cats, wolves, foxes, snakes, scorpions, wasps, tarantulas; but one is almost tempted at times to regard a small savage black ant as the master existence of this vast mountain world.
These fearless, restless, wandering imps, though only about a quarter of an inch long, are fonder of fighting and biting than any beast I know. They attack every living thing around their homes, often without cause as far as I can see. Their bodies are mostly jaws curved like ice-hooks, and to get work for these weapons seems to be their chief aim and pleasure. Most of their colonies are established in living oaks somewhat decayed or hollowed, in which they can conveniently build their cells. These are chosen probably because of their strength as opposed to the attacks of animals and storms. They work both day and night, creep into dark caves, climb the highest trees, wander and hunt through cool ravines as well as on hot, unshaded ridges, and extend their highways and byways over everything but water and sky.
From the foothills to a mile above the level of the sea nothing can stir without their knowledge; and alarms are spread in an incredibly short time, without any howl or cry that we can hear. I can’t understand the need of their ferocious courage; there seems to be no common sense in it. Sometimes, no doubt, they fight in defense of their homes, but they fight anywhere and always wherever they can find anything to bite. As soon as a vulnerable spot is discovered on man or beast, they stand on their heads and sink their jaws, and though torn limb from limb, they will yet hold on and die biting deeper. When I contemplate this fierce creature so widely distributed and strongly intrenched, I see that much remains to be done ere the world is brought under the rule of universal peace and love.”
An amazing moment came today when we climbed Seavey Pass and there were inexplicably few mosquitos. Seavey is known for the beautiful lakes at its summit, and I took one of the most refreshing swims of my life.
Bear Valley to Falls Creek, 12.5 Miles
Nigh unbelievable mosquito density. Camped early tonight due to our fatigue, and there are dozens covering our tent, and an ambient hum from the sheer biomass of these little flies.
Look forward to this being over. It is amazing how quickly paradise transformed into a hell.
Falls Creek to Sonora Pass, 19 Miles and Sonora Pass to Kennedy Meadows North, 8 Miles
Left Yosemite today, and the change is dramatic. From lakes and meadows to the large Toiyabe National Forest. Soon after we crossed the northern terminus of Yosemite at Dorothy Lake Pass, the mosquitos and notorious ants almost immediately thinned out.
We went over one of the most beautiful passes, Sonora Pass. Though we gained 3,000 ft of elevation, it was a far lower grade than all prior, making it a far more enjoyable experience.
This also feels like the largest landscape we have crossed yet, and here’s a few images to demonstrate what I mean. I managed to capture Mary a ways behind me, and see if you can spot her in the photographs.
In addition, we were fortunate enough to be able to camp along the high ridgelines of Sonora Pass, with the outstanding views captured above. We looked back at the high sierras here one last time, a fitting farewell to such a remarkable place.
We saw the sunset in its phases during the golden and blue hours, which have captured the eyes of artists for as long as they have had the eyes and imagination to do so.
A bit of misfortune(though a good story) came as we were settled in our tent, and a very persistent large grey mouse insisted on wanting to come in. I have no idea why he would want to, but this furry creature repeatedly returned to claw at our vestibule. We did not sleep soundly tonight as we were on high alert. Rodents are notorious for chewing through tents.
Kennedy Meadows North to Murray Canyon, 17.5 Miles
In the Humboldt Toiyabe Forest, the oddity of seeing snowfields in mid June still has not worn off for me. It’s striking how quickly the terrain changed when we left Yosemite, as now much of the terrain is stained red and covered in loose, grey pumice. Many of the mountains resemble jagged spires, giving an imposing look onto distant landscapes. I have no idea how far back we would have to go in the annals of geologic time for there to be volcanic activity, but it leaves its mark here still.
Fortunate for there to be an abundance of water, as we slowly descend from the Sierras into whatever lies ahead in northern California.
Murray Canyon to Kinney Lake, 14.5 Miles
We are exhausted beyond measure, and cannot wait to get into town. However, a silver linings come as we met a friendly trail maintainer who gave us some extra food to eat, as well as history of the area.
For all of the difficulties hiking here, they go hand in hand with the outstanding wildflowers present.
Kinney Lake to Blue Lakes, 17 Miles
Very close to South Lake Tahoe now, and camped along a ridgeline looking towards the volcanic mountains and dark blue lakes.
Look forward to a recharge and time to reflect on the incredible landscapes we have seen.
Blue Lakes to Sayles Canyon, 18.5 Miles + 7 to South Lake Tahoe
We made it!
On the final day, we were initially short on food, but came upon two very kind trail angels who gave us more than enough to get to our destination. Very grateful to all those who make it possible for us to do this.
nearly 1,100 miles behind us, and 1,500 ahead.
After a recharge, look forward to what lies ahead.
Total Miles: 1,090